How much does it cost to run a computer monitor?
A computer monitor is a display device that converts electrical signals into visible light by illuminating thousands of pixels. Most modern monitors use LED backlighting to draw power efficiently, though the actual energy consumed depends heavily on screen size, brightness level, and panel technology—making it one of the more variable electronics in typical home or office setups.
Computer Monitor running cost calculator
- Per day
- $0.05
- Per month
- $0.99
- Per year
- $11.90
- CO₂ / year
- 28 kg
Based on 70 kWh per year. Adjust the price per kWh to match your latest electricity bill for an exact figure.
At 35 watts used 8 hours a day, a computer monitor costs about $0.05 per day, $0.99 per month and $11.90 per year on an average rate of 17¢ per kWh — roughly 70 kWh and 28 kg of CO₂ over a year. Enter your own electricity rate and usage in the calculator above for a figure matched to your bill.
The brightness setting on your monitor is the single biggest lever for controlling its power draw. Many people set their display to maximum brightness out of habit or because default factory settings aim for retail showroom visibility, but office and home environments typically need far less. Reducing brightness to a comfortable level—usually around 50-70% of maximum—can cut energy use by 20-30% without noticeably affecting image quality or comfort. The key is adjusting to match your room's ambient lighting rather than treating the monitor as a light source for the space itself.
Monitor size and resolution interact in interesting ways with energy consumption. A 27-inch display uses more power than a 21-inch one, but the difference isn't linear—a larger screen doesn't necessarily double the power draw. Higher resolutions (1440p, 4K) require slightly more processing power from the backlight and graphics hardware, but the effect is modest compared to brightness. If you're choosing between models, focus more on whether you actually need the extra screen real estate than on chasing minimal wattage differences between similar-sized monitors.
Refresh rate marketing has created confusion around monitor efficiency. Gaming and professional monitors advertised at 144Hz or 240Hz may draw more power than 60Hz alternatives, but only when actively refreshing at those rates—and only in specific content. Browsing the web, reading documents, or watching video doesn't benefit from high refresh rates, so many high-refresh monitors actually spend most of their time drawing similar power to standard panels. If you're buying primarily for office work, a basic 60Hz monitor will serve you just fine and cost less upfront.
The choice between IPS, VA, and TN panel technologies has minimal impact on energy consumption—all perform similarly in terms of power draw. What matters more is the backlight type and how the monitor's firmware manages it. Some monitors include automatic brightness adjustment based on ambient light sensors, which can provide real savings if the feature is enabled and calibrated properly. Check whether your monitor has this feature and whether it's turned on; many ship with it disabled, leaving the power savings on the table.
One overlooked efficiency consideration is monitor standby behavior. Older monitors can draw 10-15 watts even when apparently off or in sleep mode, while modern Energy Star-certified models draw under 0.5 watts. If your monitor stays plugged in 24/7 and spends 16 hours a day in sleep mode, that difference compounds significantly. Plugging your monitor into a power strip that you can fully switch off when not in use for extended periods (nights, weekends) is a practical way to eliminate phantom draw entirely.
Frequently asked questions
- Why does my monitor use more power than the manufacturer's specification?
- Manufacturer specifications often list average power at mid-range brightness (usually 50%), but most people run monitors at or near maximum brightness. Additionally, the figures may not include power supply inefficiencies or the energy cost of connected USB devices. Real-world use at full brightness can easily be 50% higher than the advertised number.
- Should I buy a smaller monitor to save energy?
- Not necessarily as your primary motivation. A 24-inch monitor might use 25-30 watts while a 32-inch uses 40-45 watts, but the difference amounts to only a few dollars per year for most users. Buy based on screen real estate that serves your actual work or gaming needs, then optimize brightness to manage the cost.
- Is it better to leave my monitor on all day or turn it off between uses?
- If you're leaving your desk for more than 20 minutes, turning the monitor off saves energy. Modern monitors take just a moment to power back on and reach full brightness, with no startup wear or cost. Leaving a monitor idle but powered for extended periods wastes far more energy than the minor inconvenience of manual shutdown.
- Do curved or ultrawide monitors use significantly more power than flat standard ones?
- Not inherently. Power consumption is driven by panel size, brightness, and backlight technology—shape doesn't matter much. An ultrawide 34-inch monitor might use 40-50 watts depending on brightness, roughly equivalent to a similarly-bright 32-inch flat panel. Choose based on your workflow, not energy concerns.
- What does 'blue light mode' or 'eye comfort' mode do to power consumption?
- These modes typically reduce blue wavelength output by filtering the backlight or adjusting color calibration, which can reduce power draw by 5-10% because less intense light output requires less electrical energy. The energy savings are modest, but the potential comfort benefit makes them worth trying if you spend many hours at your screen.
- How much does monitor age affect power consumption?
- LED monitor technology has been relatively stable since 2010, so a 10-year-old monitor doesn't necessarily use dramatically more power than a new one. However, newer monitors are more likely to include standby efficiency features and better backlight management. The efficiency gain isn't usually worth replacing a working monitor, but it's a minor bonus if you're upgrading anyway.